Installing Your Texas Custom Doors and Complete Entryways A New Front Door Can Change The Whole Look Of Your Home. If your front door is old and worn out, or if you're simply getting tired of the way your house looks, it might be time for a new front door. New doors are often more energy efficient than older doors, and they also offer better security.

New Front Door Installation Instructions
Materials: measuring tape pry bar hammer chisel hammer screwdrivers drill, with drill bits and driver bits utility knife hacksaw or reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blade	circular saw miter saw wooden shims caulk gun with butyl caulk pre-hung door exterior trim weather stripping safety glasses work gloves

For Warranty purposes, All products must be installed by a Licenced Contractor

Steps:

* Although you can install a door from scratch, it's easier to install a pre-hung door, which includes a pre-assembled doorjamb with the door attached.

1. Start by measuring the opening for the doorway; measure for the actual doors as well as for the rough opening. That way you'll be sure your new door will fit properly.
   
   
2. After you get the new door, remove the old one by tapping out the hinge pins and pulling the door off the hinges.
   
   
3. Use a utility knife to score between the molding and the interior wall, and remove the molding with a pry bar. Be careful when you remove the molding; you might be able to reuse it.
   
   
4. Unscrew the hinges from the jamb; there may be some long screws that extend into the wall studs.
   
   
5. Use a circular saw to cut through part of the jamb (shown below), about halfway up, and then pry the remaining portion away with your hands or a pry bar. Remove the entire jamb. You may need to use a utility knife to break the caulk seal between the jamb and exterior wall. Also, a hacksaw or reciprocating saw may be needed to cut through any fasteners that won't come out.
   
   
   * Check the door manufacturer's instructions regarding removal and installation of the doorbell.
   
   
6. Check the doorway opening to be sure it's plumb and level before you start installing the new doorjamb. In some cases you might want to remove the subsill (shown below ), which lies beneath the threshold; however, if it's in good shape you can leave it in place.
   
   
   
7. Dry-fit the new door to be sure it fits properly. You may need help moving the door.
   
   
8. Pull the door back out of the opening, and run a generous bead of butyl caulk along subsill (figure below).
   
   
   
9. Attach two pieces of scrap wood in the upper corners of the doorway on the interior side. The wood will act as a brace to help hold the door upright.
   
   
10. Set the bottom of the door in place, and raise the top into position. Make sure it's plumb and level, and temporarily nail the frame into place.
    
    
11. Insert shims between the frame and the wall to prevent the door from shifting from side to side.
    
    Place shims behind every hinge as well as any other place that appears to be bowed inward. Then secure the door by driving tenpenny finish nails through the jamb and shims.
    
    
    
12. Trim off excess shims with a utility knife; just score along the shim and break it off.
    
    
13. For additional security, remove one short screw from each hinge and replace it with a 2-1/2-inch screw that extends into the wall stud.
    
    
14. Open and close the door to test the operation. You can make sure it's level by opening the door to a certain point and then leaving it; if it doesn't move, you've done it right.
    
    
15. Apply exterior trim such as brick molding. When the trim is in place, run a bead of caulk between it and the exterior wall.
    
    
16. Push fiberglass insulation between the doorjamb and the wall; don't push it in too tightly because you'll reduce its effectiveness.
    
    
17. Attach interior trim around the door. If you're not reusing your original interior trim, try to find something that will be large enough to cover any imperfections you might have caused when you removed the door.
    
    
18. Install weather-stripping if the door manufacturer recommends it.
    
    
19. Install the door handle and deadbolt lock.

• Damage caused by improper installation, finishing and maintenance, or by attempts to perform any repairs to the door other than by a Licensed contractor installer.
  
  
• Damage, misuse or abuse caused by other parties.
  NOTE: All units must be inspected upon receipt to the store/customer, as damage claims are void after the product has been received and signed for as "Free of Damages".
  
  
• Failure to properly finish all door/sidelite/transom surfaces and/or jamb materials immediately. This includes units that will be stored in excess of 30 days prior to installation.
  
  
• Installing a wood door in prolonged sunlight.
  
  
• Warpage shall not be considered a defect unless it exceeds 1/4" in the plane of a door up to 36" wide and up to 80" tall, 96" height doors would be 1/2". Doors greater than these dimensions are not covered by warranty. This distance shall be determined by placing a straight edge on the suspected concave face of the door and measuring the point of maximum distance between the bottom of the straight edge and the face of the door, accounting for panels and glazing recess. Action on any claim of warpage may be deferred at the option of Supplier for a period not to exceed 12 months, since it is not uncommon for a temporary warp condition to occur as the door adjusts to local humidity and temperature conditions. Natural variations in color or texture of any.

The first requirement for you to consider is will your homes entryway provide an adequate overhang for your wood entry door investment. A good rule of thumb for the wood entry door/overhang equation is, the overhang should extend outward at least 1/2 the height of the entire entryway and a minimum of 3' of either side of the wood entry door unit. Stand in your entryway, take a tape measure and measure from your feet and upward to the bottom of the overhang. If the height is 10' then the projection will need to be 5' outward. Now for the width, extend the tape measure 3' and place on the outer left and right side of the wood door unit, this is how far the overhang should be in width. This general rule will help provide a protective "umbrella" for your wood entry door.

NOTE:South/Southwest facing entries: Adequate roof overhang for South/Southwest facing entries must equal Overhang height. If your Overhang height is 12' your projection must be 12' as well. This will give the protection needed for Entries facing South/Southwest

• Inspect your door unit periodically. If the topcoat has been damaged or is showing signs of deterioration another coat will need to be reapplied. Depending on your environment, the door unit will need to be refinished periodically.

TEXAS CUSTOM DOORS
Katy Fielder / Sales
866.461.4919

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